Showing posts with label filter coffee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label filter coffee. Show all posts

When the unknown comes too close to be true - The unknown swami and Sasikumar at Mylapore, Chennai

When the unknown comes too close to be true - 
The unknown swami and Sasikumar at Mylapore, Chennai 

The afternoon sun in Chennai did not so much shine as it leaned, heavy and humid, against the yellow-washed walls of the buildings surrounding the Kapaleeshwarar Temple. In the narrow lanes of Mylapore, the air was a thick soup of camphor, frying ghee, automobile exhaust, and the salt-spray drifting in from the Marina.

Sasikumar sat on a low, backless wooden bench at a corner stall that had no name, only a reputation for the most potent filter coffee in the district. At six-foot-two, with shoulders that seemed to have been carved out of the very basalt of the temple pillars and a military moustache that sat like a stiff black brush above his lip, he looked more like a plainclothes commando than a private taxi driver. His dark skin was beaded with sweat, his eyes fixed on the stainless-steel tumblers being rhythmically "pulled" by the coffee-master behind the counter.

Beside him sat the man known only as the ‘Unknown Swami.’

If you saw him in a crowd, you wouldn’t see him at all. He wore a cream-colored bush shirt, slightly frayed at the collar but impeccably clean, and sensible black trousers. A thick, curved-handle walking stick of polished rosewood leaned against the bench between them. A canvas briefcase and a simple cotton shoulder bag lay at his feet. He looked like a retired postmaster or a bank clerk who had spent forty years counting other people’s money without ever once feeling the urge to keep any for himself.

The unknown Swami and Sasikumar near the 
Kapaleeswarar Temple at Mylapore, Chennai
(Image source - Gemini AI)


“The silence at St. Thomas was different today, Sasikumar,” the Swami said. His voice was like well-worn silk—soft, but with a strength that didn't need to shout.

Sasikumar nodded, adjusting his bulk on the narrow bench. He had waited outside the San Thome Cathedral for an hour while the Swami sat within. “It is a long way from the beach to the temple, Swami-ji. One side, the sea and the Saint; the other side, the fire and the Goddess. My taxi felt like a bridge between two worlds today.”

The Swami smiled, his eyes crinkling behind thick glasses. “A bridge is a good thing to be. But the bridge doesn’t choose who walks over it. It just… stays.”

The coffee-master clattered two tumblers onto the stone slab in front of them. The froth was a perfect, bubbly tan.

“You know,” the Swami continued, lifting the hot steel rim with a practiced hand, “a man came to see me this morning. Before we set out. He was a man who had lived his life at a frantic pace—lobbying, advertising, shouting his name into the wind so the world wouldn't forget he existed. And then, he told me, he had a vision. Not a lightning bolt, but a sudden, quiet clarity. He resigned. He left the race. Now, he is a freelancer. He does his business alone, in silence.”

Sasikumar blew on his coffee. “In Chennai? Without shouting? He will starve, Swami-ji. Here, even the jasmine sellers have to scream to be heard.”

“That is what I thought,” the Swami replied, a playful glint in his eye. “But he told me the orders come to him like birds to a feeder. One after the other. He doesn't seek them; they find him. He was like a magnet, Sasikumar. He had obtained a certain spiritual energy—a weightiness of soul—that he clearly deserved. He didn't want to talk about the mechanics of it. He was reticent. But he looked so happy, so relaxed, that I felt… familiar. I felt I had known that look for a thousand years.”

Sasikumar looked at the Swami’s cream bush shirt and then at the chaotic swarm of scooters and rickshaws darting past the stall. A bus honked, a sound like a dying elephant, and a cyclist swerved, cursing under his breath.

“It sounds beautiful, Swami-ji,” Sasikumar said, his voice dropping an octave. “But I am a man of the road. When a man cuts me off in traffic, or a passenger refuses to pay the fair, I feel a fire in my chest. You say he was a magnet. I feel like a dry haystack. One spark, and I am gone. Is it truly so difficult for a person not to react? Why is the reaction so… overwhelming?”

The Swami took a slow sip of the decoction. “It is the most difficult thing in the world, Sasi. We think we are the masters of our house, but we are really just the servants of our reactions. A word is said, and we hit back. An insult is thrown, and we burn. It’s as if our personal attitude and our behavior have become predators that consume us from the inside out.”

“I try to control it,” Sasikumar muttered, his hand tightening around the steel tumbler. “I grip the steering wheel until my knuckles are white. I tell myself: ‘Do not shout. Do not strike.’ But the senses… they are like five wild horses pulling the chariot in different directions.”

“Control is one way,” the Swami mused, looking out at the temple gopuram rising into the hazy sky. “But control is a strain. It is a muscular effort. Perhaps the secret is not in controlling the senses, but in creating buffers. When a flame is too close to the skin, it burns. If you move back, the flame is still there, but the heat is just a glow. We must prevent the flame from being too close. Whether through prayer, or meditation, or simply the bold choice to stay away from the irritant. You see, Sasi, we accelerate toward chaos because we think we have to be part of the friction.”

The Swami leaned forward, his walking stick shifting slightly. “I heard something yesterday that stayed with me. It was about our instincts. We have two very powerful, very ancient drivers. The first is the thirst for revenge. ‘He hurt me, so I must hurt him.’ The second is more subtle, more dangerous—the need for justice. ‘He did wrong, so I must ensure he is punished.’ We think seeking justice makes us better than the man seeking revenge. But often, it is just revenge wearing a suit and tie.”

Sasikumar frowned. He had been in the army before the taxi business. The concept of justice was his bedrock. “But without justice, Swami-ji, the world is a jungle. If I do not demand what is right, then the wrong-doer wins.”

“Does he?” The Swami asked softly. “Look at the cost of your demand, Sasi. You seek justice because you have an opinion about what is right and wrong with the world. You think you know you are correct. But while you are busy being ‘correct,’ you are losing your joy. You are losing the present moment. We forget that the only truth—the only absolute, unshakeable reality—is right now. This coffee. This heat. The sound of that bell. Everything in the past, including the insult that happened five minutes ago, is no longer true. It is a ghost. Why do you let a ghost drive your taxi?”

Sasikumar looked at the Swami’s canvas briefcase. It was bulging with papers, perhaps manuscripts or old letters. He thought of his own life—the years of discipline, the anger he carried for the system, the small vengeances he took on the road.

“You are saying,” Sasikumar began slowly, “that to find joy, I have to stop being the judge of the world?”

“I am saying that you should have a perfect idea instead,” the Swami replied. “Not a perfect reaction, but a perfect idea. The idea needs to be linked to a dream—a dream that is absolutely bold and audacious. That businessman I met… his dream wasn't to be rich. His dream was to be still. To be a magnet. He stopped committing himself to the 'justice' of the marketplace and committed himself to the 'truth' of his own peace.”

A young boy in a ragged shirt came by, collecting the used tumblers with a loud clatter. The Swami watched him with an expression of profound tenderness.

“Revenge is a loop,” the Swami continued. “Justice is often a wall. But the 'Now'… the 'Now' is an open door. If you stop reacting, Sasi, you stop being a victim of the world’s chaos. You become the atmosphere through which the chaos passes without leaving a mark.”

Sasikumar sat in silence for a long time. He watched a woman in a bright kanjivaram saree walk toward the temple, her hair adorned with a string of fresh jasmine. He smelled the flowers. He felt the heat of the sun on his arms. He noticed, for the first time, that the Swami hadn't checked his watch once during the entire journey.

“I have always thought that to be strong, I must be like iron,” Sasikumar said, his voice now a mere murmur. “But iron rusts when the rain falls. You are telling me to be like the air.”

“Air cannot be cut by a sword, Sasi. It cannot be burned by fire. It simply is.”

The Swami picked up his rosewood walking stick and stood up. He moved with a surprising lightness for a man of his years. He adjusted the cotton bag on his shoulder and looked at the crowded street.

“Shall we go?” the Swami asked. “I believe there is a sunset we are meant to see from the back seat of a very well-driven taxi.”

Sasikumar stood, towering over the elderly man. He reached out, not to take the Swami’s arm—for the Swami clearly didn't need help—but to hold the briefcase.

“Swami-ji,” Sasikumar said as they walked toward the parked car, “that man you met… the magnet. Did he really look that happy?”

The Swami stopped and looked up at the big man. “He looked like a man who had realized that yesterday is a lie and tomorrow is a rumor. He looked like a man who was finally, for the first time, standing right where his feet were.”

As Sasikumar opened the door for the Unknown Swami, he didn't check the rearview mirror to see who was behind him. He didn't curse the rickshaw that cut him off. He simply turned the key, felt the vibration of the engine, and for the first time in many years, he didn't feel the need to go anywhere at all, even as the car began to move. He was already there.


(c) Bharat Bhushan 

7 April 2026

Kaapi and Blessings on the Girivalam at Arunachala - An intro to one of the short stories to come up in my to-be-published book - "Strong Filter Coffee - Short Stories from South India"

The morning after Purnima was thick with strong coffee and residual dust dampened by the rain at Kuppusami’s ‘Kaapi Kadai’ near Sri Ramanasram. Kasipati, pulling his empty banana cart to a halt, greeted Kuppusami with a nod. “Need your very strong philtarr kaapi, Anna. I need it desperately.”

Kuppusami, wiping the counter of his Kaapi Kadai, nodded slowly, the steam rising. “Like a river of people, wasn’t it, on the Girivalam? All night long.”

Kasipati took a deliberate, grateful sip, blowing over the rim. “A flood, Anna! Three times I ran back for stock. The last bunch of bananas was gone before midnight. Then, I had my own walk, did the entire parikrama, you see? All eight lingams, Adi Annamalai... the whole circuit. The peace afterwards at the main Annamalai temple, unforgettable.”

Image generated with Gemini AI - 2 November 2025


Kuppusami chuckled, setting down a tiny tumbler. “My wife, the girl, we were all working together till three AM. Could not shut the Kadai with that many pilgrims queued up for kaapi.” He looked out at the sacred mountain, a silhouette against the rising sun. “It’s entirely the grace of the holy Arunachala, isn’t it? How else do two old roadside businesses like ours survive the lean times, only to thrive in the blessings of Mahadeva himself?”

Kasipati smiled, finished his coffee, and placed the tumbler down with a soft click. “Only by His grace, Anna. Only by His grace.”

[Kaapi and Blessings on the Girivalam at Arunachala - An intro to one of the short stories to come up in my to-be-published book - "Strong Filter Coffee - Short Stories from South India"]

Bharat Bhushan 

2 November 2025



Tiffin and Filter Kaapi at Matunga and everything is all right in the world

 I was returning to Matunga after nearly a year and was excited and super happy to walk along its familiar footpaths crammed with vendors selling vegetables, snacks, plastic goods and flowers and bananas and whatever. This may not sound exciting to you if you are not familiar with Matunga but for those who know, they know and they would be nodding understandingly and would also be feeling the joy of walking about in those streets and pavements.

The previous year had gone in a project assignment in Central and North India and I had been missing the truly original honest-to-perfection idli-vada-sambar-chutney, the various dosas and the absolutely bestest of all, the strong “philtar kaapi” that for a Mumbaikar, can only be had at Matunga. Please do not misunderstand me. There are other good places too for filter coffee and south Indian snacks in Mumbai, and good ones too, but the pleasure of walking about in the area and sneaking into Ram Ashray or Sharada Bhavan for upma-chutney or cajoling for a single-medu-vada-sambar or waiting for kela-bhajji or mysore-bonda cannot be bettered in any other café elsewhere in the city.

Devendra was waiting for me near Sharada Bhavan as we had discussed over the phone and he understood that I needed company while snacking so that we could chat absolute nonsense and endless stuff about nothing. It was much better if you got someone else at your table, total strangers, and you could pick on any topic and everyone would chat it out for the duration of the stay at the café. Sometimes, very rarely, you may become good friends but it was a totally understood thing in Matunga, King’s Circle, Sion Circle or Dadar Circle that you were only snack table meetups.

As expected, every table at Sharada Bhavan was occupied. The corner table had an elderly couple, who did look like dedicated Matungawallahs, except that the two other empty seats were on the inner side, that is, we would have to squeeze in behind the other two diners. We did that. The diners did not look up and did not make way for us. They were very busy with their dishes. As would have been expected, we checked out their plates very fast. They were having Rava Masala Dosa and Upma-Chutney. There was no sign of any other earlier dish that had been eaten up.

‘Ok, they have just started,’ I thought and waved to a familiar waiter. He waved back. It was not like we were friends but he must have just guessed that I was a regular. He recognised Devendra though and smiled at him. I was feeling somewhat jealous but it was to be expected as Devendra was here almost every day even if he had brought in a good lunch pack from home. It was a rare day or week that he would not have had some tiffin at Sharada Bhavan.

We placed our orders and instantly, the diners at our table and the one next to it, looked at us with respect. We asked for Ulundu Dosa and it was a rather specific order. Devendra enunciated the entire order with proper gestures.

“Two Ulundu Dosa. Crisp and thick. Two chutneys but also give one molagapodi (= gunpowder) and sambar. Bring them together. After that we want idli-chutneys, two plates, with the idlis swimming in the chutney. Bring two sambar each, separately. Do not bring kaapi immediately. We will let you know if we want anything else before that.”

The waiter was more appreciative, though. “You do not want your usual? No upma-chutney and dabra-Tea?”

The two diners sharing our table looked up at the very ancient menu on the wall. This was the most traditional of all. The menu had never changed its look. The prices had been repainted but the items on the menu had never been changed. No new Punjabi-Chinese menu additions and no surprise dampener of Pav Bhaji or Schezwan Dosa or whatever it was that was masquerading as ethnic cuisine or novelties. People came to their regular restaurants in Matunga entirely because they did not want to be disappointed by surprises or changes in their dining routine.

One of the diners pointed at the menu board. “Ulundu dosa! We have not had it in all these years of coming here. How come? Bhushan Kaka used to always talk about it when he came here with Shantaram Kaka, years ago.”

“I have had it at Ram Ashray,” the other diner said. “But it is better at Ballard Estate. Not in Matunga. I have never liked it here. But I have had three, one after the other, when I was in Mysuru. It is much much better there.”

Devendra smiled. He was used to this sort of flowing conversation. It meant nothing to be able to know a better restaurant or a better eating spot. It was just a starting point for some more discussion even if it was for time pass.

“It is good here, but you have to eat it just right,” he said. “It has to be crisp. It has to be thin. But it needs to be enjoyed with the chutney and molagapodi. We mix up everything, chutney, sambar and podi, and allow the crisp dosa to soak it up. That is the correct point in time to slice it up and crunch it. It explodes inside and you enjoy the dosa.”

The second diner smiled. He had closed his eyes for a moment, as if visualising the description. He nodded.

“Yes, but I come here for the upma-chutney. I enjoy the silky feel. You do not get better upma than this in Matunga. Sometimes at the new footpath café opposite Amba Bhavan but not every day. My brother and I, we need to eat only soft tiffin. Our teeth are in a bad condition and we cannot risk cutting up our gums. We bleed easily.”

This was something very different, I thought. He had heard about it but had never actually met someone who suffered from it. But, here they were, both of them, with Rava Masala Dosa. That was crisp, actually extra crisp.

“You may suffer many cuts with that dosa. Are you going to continue so that you can enjoy the upma-chutney?”

The brothers laughed. The elder replied, smiling, “Yes. I knew you would catch that. But this one is ok enough. We asked for soft dosas and even then, it would be risky. We are soaking it up with the sambar. We have to get back to our homes and pretend that we were never here. Our families do not permit us to dine out here in Matunga. They want us to stick to our diet and be careful and strict about them. But, both of us, are 80+ and what more can happen to us? This is Matunga and Sharada Bhavan. Something will definitely go wrong with our health, we told them, if you stop us from eating to our joy and contentment. All this we do, only to enjoy the last round of strong filter kaapi.”

Devendra nodded knowingly. “I know you both. I have seen you over many years but we have never spoken. Your grandchildren also come here with their classmates from college on some days. They come here and instantly ask for Rava Masala Dosa and Upma-Chutney and filter kaapi. They will take care of you. Do not worry. God is great.” 

From "the very short short stories on first edit" 
(c) Bharat Bhushan
31 January 2022

growing up with filter coffee, first thing in the morning - memories of my father and mother (1)


We lived in a 320 square feet ground floor apartment at Wadala, Mumbai, through my childhood and formative years, through marriage in 1986 and onwards to moving out to Pune in 1996. My father, Balapila Naga Bhushan stayed back at Wadala until the December of 2008. We retained the house through many trying years and plenty of happy times. It was a one-room plus kitchen plus balcony. We modified it by moving out the kitchen to the balcony and used the available modified space as an additional room. Both rooms were for all-round general purposes and were used as bedrooms, study rooms, prayer halls, TV space, lounging area and whatever.
The kitchen in the balcony was a new idea and many apartment houses in the area were warming up to the concept. Our neighbour had also converted their balcony and we were not alone in this innovation. Nobody pointed fingers and there were no complaints from the resident’s association. The municipal corporation in Mumbai is generally kind to such actions and they came and inspected the premises and said that it was a violation and that we would have to pay up a “compounding fee”, which we did, and that was that.
The kitchen window backed up into the hall-plus-bedroom and the entire family slept there on coir mattresses on the floor until plastic mattresses replaced them. The climate in Mumbai was very unique in our childhood days. Nobody needed a bedsheet to cover oneself and one did not require any cotton mattress or groundsheet to sleep on. A coir sheet was perfectly okay and we got really splendidly woven ones from Kerala. Vendors would bring them in to Matunga and one could bargain forever and get a real good deal if one was persistent.
Early mornings, we generally woke up to the excellent and enticing aroma of filter coffee being brewed by my father in the balcony-kitchen. The tremendous waft would forcibly wake us up. My father was a specialist at his art. A real master. He would brew the filter coffee that he procured regularly and faithfully from Phillips at Matunga with hot steaming water. In those moments, the milk would be got ready, boiled, diluted to the correct measure and kept ready to receive the filter decoction. My mother, Sharada (Indumati) Bhushan, would have already been up and she would be getting ready to get out of the house to reach the school where she worked as a teacher during the early seventies and later as a headmistress in the late seventies and early eighties and until her retirement.
My father would not partake of the coffee or distribute it until he had placed some milk in a small vessel on the prayer shelf in front of the deities. He would recite a brief prayer and my mother would take over the space after having had her bath. This was a fixed routine in an apartment with only one bathroom and one toilet. The person who would exit the house first always got priority in the queue. After the prayers, my father would distribute steaming hot coffee to each one of us. That was a sacred ritual in our small and compact family. We never realised it. My father had privilege of getting it ready and handing it over to each one of us. We would sit quietly, each one on the coir mattress, our backs leaning on the wall, sipping the coffee, enjoying it and delighting in the taste and flavour. I do not think any south Indian house would be different in those years. The moment of drinking the first morning cup of filter coffee was pure pleasure and every family would probably indulge in it.
I often wondered as to why my mother did not make that first cup of filter coffee. She did the second round in the morning though, and later in the evening. The night round was made by my sister, Sarala, much against the wishes of my parents. This was only for me, as I would sit late at night, reading novels and comics and whatever. We did not have much of anything else to do at home until the black and white TV entered the room and took over much of our future.
The filter coffee decoction vessel was also different for use by my father or by my mother. The one used by my father was a small and compact one and cleaned efficiently by him and kept aside in a location where my mother and sister could not access. He would always claim that the ladies did not know how to clean the decoction vessel properly. Only men were good at that activity. His younger brother, Shantaram Naidu, always agreed with him, as he did on each point made by my father. Their father and my grandfather, Shyamala Ranga Bhashyam, on the weekends that he stayed with us, was most happy when he saw his elder son preparing the filter coffee. He would not control his patience and would take over the act of performing the first prayer so that it would force my father to hurry up with the final preparations of serving or distributing the filter coffee.
My grandfather needed an entire large mug of filter coffee, almost equal to four of our cups. He would indulge in it, by worshipping an entire range of gods, seeking their blessings from the heavens by pointing the coffee mug at every other corner of the skies. My father would wait quietly with his cup of coffee and ask politely if my grandfather would need a refill. Precious memories, all.  
My mother would be wary of serving the second cup of coffee to my grandfather, ie her father-in-law. She knew that he would be very demanding of the correct taste, the exact proportions and the rightful flavour. She could not cheat by asking my father to make it as he would do it, for my grandfather would recognise the difference. So, she would make it as she would, and hand it over to my grandfather and would immediately place a disclaimer, “This is of course not as good as your son would do, but what to do, we are not perfect, all of us.” That would certainly allow her to escape with a smiling nod from my grandfather who would agree with the confirmation, “Yes, of course, nobody can make filter coffee like Babu ( = his name for his elder son) can.”

10 October 2019




From Srirangam to Matunga - the timepass tales of Bhushan and Shantaram

Sunday breakfast at Matunga, without fail
Shantaram and Bhushan were brothers from Srirangam and settled at Wadala, Mumbai. As part of their Sunday morning tradition over many decades, since the days they accompanied their father, they would walk up to Sharada Bhavan in Matunga to have their regular order - idli + medu vada sambar, rava masala dosa and filter coffee. It never changed and as ever, the decor and furniture at Sharada Bhavan had remained the same. 
This never-changing tradition and its environs had led to the brothers becoming resistant to any suggestions or need for change in their lives and their work.
Their tradition faced a challenge and an obstacle on one such splendid Sunday. A large group of cricket fans had taken over all the seats in Sharada Bhavan and the old-time regulars were waiting outside. The strong rumor was that the idli-vada sambar and rava masala dosa may run out and the restaurant may not be able to serve them their only choice.
It would not do, said Bhushan, and taking hold of his younger brother's arm, they went inside and stood near the cashier and insisted that they may be allowed to share a table with the youngsters. The cashier knew them for many years and asked for two chairs that were being used as a temporary store inside the kitchen.
Once seated, they were amazed to see that the entire group of young cricket fans was also eating idli + medu vada sambar and rava masala dosa.
It filled Bhushan's heart with joy as he explained to Shantaram, "I am so very happy. Our nation will never have any problem. The younger generation will also prosper and be good. A plate of idli-vada sambar followed by rava masala dosa and steaming strong filter kapi on a Sunday morning at Matunga, and everything is all right with the world!"
[True story... It actually happened...]


[27 May 2019]


Watching Guns of Navarone at Aurora talkies


Bhushan and Shantaram were having a Friday evening argument as usual. Aurora talkies, the cinema theatre at King's Circle was showing "The Guns of Navarone" for the umpteenth time and both the brothers had seen the movie, several times. They were counting off the number of times that they had seen the movie. Bhushan had seen it 10 times and Shantaram had done better, 12, because he had also accompanied their father, Bhashyam, to see the movie at Aurora talkies.
"Better to stay at home and cook ourselves a splendid dinner for Saturday evening," suggested Bhushan.
"No! Let's go and see the movie again," countered Shantaram. "They may not show the movie later, and this may be the last time. I do not want to miss the scene of the boat tossing against the angry waves, and Gregory Peck drinking his cup of coffee in that cool manner. Let's go and see it again."
Bhushan was also reminded of that scene, "cinema history!" as he termed it. No one could better it, even if the movie was remade a hundred times.
Their wives and children had given up on the argument, many years ago, for they knew what would happen. The brothers would surely go for the movie, as they did, to Aurora talkies, every Saturday evening. Sunday mornings were for breakfast at Sharda Bhavan at Matunga, while Saturday evenings were for the 6 to 9 pm show at Aurora. Any movie, Hindi or English or Tamil or the very rare NTR Telugu one.
It was their father, Bhashyam, who closed the argument. "Go and see the 'Guns of Navarone' and get tickets for me also. I will come with you. I want to see Gregory Peck and Anthony Quinn and David Niven. Who knows, the three may not come back in a movie again."


[2 June 2019]