the mysterious taxi driver, the coffee house at Connaught Place and the chaiwallah

 I had to get out of the airconditioned meeting hall and the high-storey building and try to take a longish walk after the very typical and predictable buffet lunch that had been served. I had been warned about this sort of a lunch at the semi-government semi-corporate meetings that took place anywhere in Delhi. The caterers would serve a total kitsch of Punjabi, South Indian, Chinese and a whole lot of very familiar dishes from various places in India in order to satisfy any and every VVIP that may turn up. The host did not want to be the one to disappoint any of the power centers in the capital and always instructed the caterer to ensure that there were always 2-3 dishes of different types.

I had had to stand around obediently with my seniors as they kept chatting and eating and my dining plate had to look creative and satisfied and thus had something of butter naan, garlic naan, some stuffed kulcha and one half of a rumali roti along with various vegetables. And, of all the combinations, later had to sit at a dining table as my boss kept chatting with somebody important, and had to watch the VVIP eat some so-called cauliflower Manchurian tawa fry with dal makhni and puris. I was just about ready to throw up after having had to watch that for twenty minutes.

My opportunity came when my boss whispered with heavy garlic breath that I was required to go down to the parking area, search for our locally hired taxi with the rather mysterious driver with the name that I could not remember and bring back some important papers and files that were sort of necessary for coming to an agreement of whatever it was that we had come here for, flying out of Mumbai in the ghostly early hours of the morning.

The lift was right out there, almost like waiting for me, and I was glad and thankful and thought that the stuffy cabin was more welcome than the buffet lunch dining hall. I rushed out of the porch and walked out of the high-storey building and went out in search of the many parking zones around Connaught Place. This is one of the most intriguing of all puzzles in New Delhi. You know that your driver entered a particular parking zone and you saw him park his car, just outside and opposite of Coffee House, and you actually saw him walk about and wave at you that he was good and comfortable out there, and you absolutely, very absolutely, know that he will not be at that spot when you return. I had had a good enough suspicion when he had asked me, in a low voice, as to how long would be at the meeting and where did we have to go from here. I had honestly replied that I did not know the answers and he had looked at me with a conspiratorial smile and nodded, as though I had confided the best of secrets to him.

Those were the days before cellphones or pagers. There was no way that we could contact him. I walked all around the coffee house parking zone. I did remember the vehicle number plate and went up to the parking booth and asked them if the vehicle had been asked to park in any other zone at Connaught Place. The parking-tikitwala checked his register and declared that no such vehicle had ever entered the zone. I argued that I had seen him actually park the vehicle and get out of the car and walk about. The tikitwala asked if I had seen the driver pay for the parking slot and I replied that I had not. There, he said that means the taxi had left rightaway and gone to park at some other spot.

What was I to do, I wondered. Should I go back and inform my boss? That would not do. He would just pick it out on me and blame me if the intended agreement did not happen. I walked about from the coffee house to Nirulas and from there to the famous camera house and around to some known names and some not so known. I looked at some pavement eateries and was upset that I could not sit there because of all the heavy buffet lunch that I had had. I returned to the coffee house parking zone and waited about. Should I go within and have a filter coffee or wait here?

An elderly tea-vendor, carrying a lighted-up stove, a chullah, with a tea kettle on it, in his right hand, with a thickish sort-of-metal wire looped around his left hand with multiple dirty looking ceramic cups hanging from it, was walking about. He was not advertising or shouting out for anyone to get their tea from him. He walked confidently, sat under the shade of a gulmohar tree, right outside the coffee house, and made himself comfortable on a packing case that must have been placed there for this very purpose. It had one of the most dirty looking cotton pillows on it.

Drivers from many vehicles walked up to him, silent, no chit chat, giving him five-rupee coins, and he poured the tea in to the ceramic cups and handing them over. The tea was enjoyed and the cups returned. I looked on curiously, wondering as to how the vendor was going to wash or clean the cups. I was not disappointed. He took a cup and tapped on the stainless steel parking barrier that went about the tree guards. A youngish man came out from a nearby shop with a bucket of water and placed it alongside and the tea vendor dunked all the cups and took them out and hanged them once again on the metal wire that was looped on his left hand. There. That was it. The cups were ready.

It was very tempting. That whiff of the tea was overpowering and welcome. I had to have a cup. What was it about the cleanliness and all that, I thought. So be it. I handed over a five rupee coin and got back a cup of tea in return. It was absolutely the most perfectest cup of tea that I had ever had, I decided. It washed away all that heaviness of the buffet lunch and the all of New Delhi and Connaught Place seemed to be all ok now and there was nothing wrong about anything. I stretched out the tea cup for a refill and entered heaven all over, once again. Perfect. Best.

Just as I drank the second cup, I noticed that our mysterious taxi driver was standing alongside me, and also enjoying a cup of tea. He seemed to be standing about as though he had never ever gone away. I looked around, and the taxi was right out there, at the very spot that I had seen him park at in the morning. I asked him if he had gone somewhere and he replied that he had gone to the outer lanes, the ones behind the well-known gurdwara and had taken a nap and had had his lunch and a second nap and he knew that this was the correct time when the tea-vendor would come to the spot outside the coffee house. So, he had returned. That was it. Nothing complicated about having gone away or any presumption that we could have returned early or that we may need our stuff from the taxi and all that.

I asked him if he had paid for the parking slot in the morning and he smiled, that wonderful New Delhi smile, that suggested that there are some questions that you do not ask if you do not want to know the answers to. Perfect. 

From "the very short short stories on first edit" 
(c) Bharat Bhushan
17 February 2022 

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